Cosmeceutical properties of p-hydroxybenzoic acid and use of microencapsulation technique to ensure controlled release
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resumo
Topical formulations are designed to exert multifunctional benefits to the skin, and the interest on
natural bioactive compounds as cosmeceutical ingredients have recently received increased
attention [1]. However, the utilization of natural ingredients can present constraints related to their
stability (e.g. against pH and temperature), being microencapsulation a useful strategy to
overcome some of these limitations [2].
The present work describes p-hydroxybenzoic acids anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, and
antimicrobial activity. The compound was further microencapsulated using the
atomization/coagulation method, with sodium alginate coagulated with calcium chloride. The
obtained microspheres were characterized in terms of morphology, particle size distribution, and
encapsulation efficiency. Free and microencapsulated forms were then incorporated into a semisolid
cosmetic base formulation and HPLC-DAD was used to screen the presence of the
compound in the final formulation.
p-Hydroxybenzoic acid showed anti-inflammatory (EC50 = 195 ± 9 μg/mL), anti-tyrosinase (EC50 =
1.86 ± 0.01 mg/mL), and antimicrobial activity against a panel of Gram positive and Gram negative
bacteria, and also Candida albicans. The microparticles showed spherical morphology, with
various sizes (D10, D50 and D90 representing 20.5, 74.6, and 206 μm, respectively), little
agglomeration, and a unimodal and bimodal particle size distribution (number and volume,
respectively). Encapsulation efficiency and yield were 88.3% and 57.8%, respectively. After
incorporation, the formulation containing free forms of the compound maintained some of its
bioactive properties, while the encapsulated forms preserved the bioactivity showing a slow
release profile of the compounds.
In conclusion, the studied compound showed interesting bioactive properties and can be used in
the development of multifunctional cosmeceutical formulation. The adopted encapsulation strategy
also provides a suitable alternative to prolong retention of bioactive compounds for subsequent
release (sustained release), thereby preserving its bioactivity over time.
