The use of mushroom extracts as boatives ingredientes in the development of cosmeceutical formulations
Artigo de Conferência
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resumo
The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for natural compounds, or extracts, with relevant bioactive
properties to act as active ingredients. Among the possibilities, mushrooms can play an important role.
They are rich sources of bioactive metabolites, known since long for their nutritional and medicinal
properties, but underexploited as cosmeceutical ingredients [1].
In the present work, ethanolic extracts obtained from Agaricus bisporus L., Pleurotus ostreatus (Jacq.
ex Fr.) P.Kumm. and Lentinula edodes (Berk.) Pegler, purchased in a local supermarket in the Northeast
of Portugal, were analysed for their anti-inflammatory activity by quantification of NO production in RAW
264.7 macrophages cells, tyrosinase inhibition assay using L-DOPA as substrate, antioxidant activity by
DPPH radical-scavenging and ferricyanide/Prussian blue reducing power assays, and also for their
antibacterial activity by determining the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum
bactericidal concentration (MBC) using the microdilution method. The extracts were chemically
characterised in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol content by HPLC-PDA and HPLC-UV,
respectively. The extract samples were further incorporated in a base cosmetic cream considering the
EC50 and MIC values previously determined resulting in a scale of 100 mg of extract per gram of base
cream. The final formulation was mixed properly to attain sample homogeneity and then evaluated for
the same bioactive purposes.
In terms of chemical composition, ergosterol and cinnamic, p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric and
protocatechuic acids were found in the characterized mushrooms. The mushroom extracts, as well as
the final cosmeceutical formulations, were found to display antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial
and anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, the final cosmeceutical formulations revealed the presence
of 85-100% of the phenolic acids and ergosterol levels detected initially in the mushroom extracts.
In conclusion, the results suggest that mushroom extracts can be interesting multifunctional
cosmeceutical ingredients for topical application to combat skin aging, inflammation and as preservative
and hyperpigmentation correcting ingredients.
