Utilization of bee products on the development of cosmetic formulation with terpenes preservatives from Trás-Os-Montes aromatic plants
Artigo de Conferência
Visão geral
Pesquisas
Informação adicional documento
Ver Todos
Visão geral
resumo
The use of natural cosmetics is nowadays becoming increasingly frequent given to the notice of
consumers to the consequences of using chemically synthesized compounds, which may even be
carcinogenic. This work aimed to develop a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with
natural ingredients, like bee products, plants of the region of Trás-Os-Montes and vegetable oils. Among
bee products, beeswax was chosen for its properties, like skin repairing power and antimicrobial power. In more detail, two sage plants (Salvia officinalis and Salvia elegans) and the thyme species Thymus
zygis subsp. zygis were used as sources of antioxidants. The phenolic profile of the hydroalcoholic
extracts of sage were elucidated by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis, while the composition of the
essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was determined by GC/ GC-MS. The antimicrobial activities were
evaluated by microdilution broth method and by diffusion agar test. The obtained formulations were
subjected to physicochemical and microbiological stability tests.
The major phenolic components of S. officinalis extract were rosmarinic acid, apigenin-Oglucuronide,
scutellarein-O-glucuronide and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide while S. elegans was mostly
composed by rosmarinic acid, salvianolic acid K, luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and caffeic acid. The GC/
GC-MS analysis of essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was mainly composed of carvacrol, cymene and
trans-sabinene hydrate. The formulations had pH values slightly acid, similar to the skin pH. No phase
separation or alteration of the organoleptic criteria of the formulations were observed. The stability of the
products was also verified by spectrophotometer within the UV visible region between 210 and 600
nm, especially the sample containing olive oil and 5% of S. elegans hydroalcoholic extract. A non-
Newtonien behavior, criterion sought in cosmetic creams, was also observed during the analysis by the
texturometer. Additionally, the thyme volatile oil, used as a preservative in the cream, showed an
inhibitory effect against Staphylococcus aureus (MIC and MBC < 0.031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC and
MBC = 1.25%), Escherichia coli (MIC and MBC = 0.31%) and Candida albicans. Above a degree of
0.31%, thyme oil showed in C. albicans, inhibition zones varying from 2 to 9.5 mm against C. albicans, in
the agar diffusion test.
The promising results of these work allows propose beeswax, S. officinalis, S. elegans and T. zygis
subsp. zygis as active ingredients for natural cosmetic formulations.
The use of natural cosmetics is nowadays becoming increasingly frequent given to the notice of consumers to the consequences of using chemically synthesized compounds, which may even be carcinogenic. This work aimed to develop a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, like bee products, plants of the region of Trás-Os-Montes and vegetable oils. Among bee products, beeswax was chosen for its properties, like skin repairing power and antimicrobial power. In more detail, two sage plants (Salvia officinalis and Salvia elegans) and the thyme species Thymus zygis subsp. zygis were used as sources of antioxidants. The phenolic profile of the hydroalcoholic extracts of sage were elucidated by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis, while the composition of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was determined by GC/ GC-MS. The antimicrobial activities were evaluated by microdilution broth method and by diffusion agar test. The obtained formulations were subjected to physicochemical and microbiological stability tests. The major phenolic components of S. officinalis extract were rosmarinic acid, apigenin-Oglucuronide, scutellarein-O-glucuronide and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide while S. elegans was mostly composed by rosmarinic acid, salvianolic acid K, luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and caffeic acid. The GC/ GC-MS analysis of essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was mainly composed of carvacrol, cymene and trans-sabinene hydrate. The formulations had pH values slightly acid, similar to the skin pH. No phase separation or alteration of the organoleptic criteria of the formulations were observed. The stability of the products was also verified by spectrophotometer within the UV visible region between 210 and 600 nm, especially the sample containing olive oil and 5% of S. elegans hydroalcoholic extract. A non- Newtonien behavior, criterion sought in cosmetic creams, was also observed during the analysis by the texturometer. Additionally, the thyme volatile oil, used as a preservative in the cream, showed an inhibitory effect against Staphylococcus aureus (MIC and MBC < 0.031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC and MBC = 1.25%), Escherichia coli (MIC and MBC = 0.31%) and Candida albicans. Above a degree of 0.31%, thyme oil showed in C. albicans, inhibition zones varying from 2 to 9.5 mm against C. albicans, in the agar diffusion test. The promising results of these work allows propose beeswax, S. officinalis, S. elegans and T. zygis subsp. zygis as active ingredients for natural cosmetic formulations.
